TURKISH BOW

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Paris Fashion Week Runway Collection

Men's catwalk exploded the runway with fireworks emanating from designer collections at Paris Fashion Week. The week just got over on 29th of June lightening the sartorial load on the ramp with ultra light fabrics. Bold prints, harem pants, slim fitted trousers, tailored look and beefy sailor looks ruled the runway. Cuts came through at Hugo Boss from a 1980's take on tailoring. The German suit maker also sent out a collection fit for the beaches of a chic French beach resort. Heavy metal sequins covering several well-cut jackets sparkled like scales. The looks were eye-catching, but gave even style maverick Adrian Brody look.

Colour took centre-stage at the Paris-based Japanese label Issey Miyake, as designer Dai Fujiwara sent out Turkish-inspired harem pants and short suits in turquoise, ceylon and Persian blues; embellished with geometric mosaic designs and eye-popping tulip prints. Triangles and hexagons woven into a cotton fabric turned a generously cut summer jacket into a delicate mosaic.
This time, translucence was the key for Calvin Klein. The opening outfit set the tone- a transparent onyx parka over Lycra shorts, in keeping with what has become the Zucchelli tradition of extreme sportswear. If the designer's signature collection was an exercise in adult restraint, this outing felt like an experiment in quirk. Emporio Armani show cased wrinkly things, scaly designs, burgundy leather mesh, sober suits, and lots of orange, deluxe oriental fabrications; long johns, models on BMX bikes and a tiny child in pinstripes.

Givenchy adopted for a flying wedge of his peers and gave the clothes a ferociously sexy athleticism using high-performance fabrics in a mosaic like print founded on the star motif. The short-over-leggings silhouette was predominant in his version of a sports uniform.  John Galliano as bizarre as ever, showcased the usual wall-to-wall spectacle, with an unusual cast of thousands, painted and garbed to resemble anyone but themselves. Separately all pieces are wearable. The theme was Napoleon's rise and the Napster being a character that Galliano effectively identifies with the show's arc.

Massimiliano Giornetti is known for his expertise in sublimating his inspirations into the grander design of Salvatore Ferragamo. This season he was influenced by the colours and textures of Africa but in transforming his impressions, he managed to produce a collection that was unutterably Italian. The recipe for the new Lanv in collection this season was Lightness, colour, desire and a lot of work. A tiny bow on a neckline, another at the waist, kimono-cut shirts, high-waist khakis, a green coat in what looked like crepe, puff sleeves, shorts in tie silk are the feminine flourishes that distinguished the label.

This time Yohji Yamamoto show cased simple clothe with little details. The palette, fabrics, silhouettes were much the same as always- black, indigo blue, linen, cupro and oversized. But the designer had slipped in a little subtext, his name written in Cyrillic script inside the breast pocket of jackets. The audience for Raf Simons' show was sitting in a beautiful garden, looking at a snake or at least a snake printed on a pair of jeans. The belts woven around the bodies of the be suited Adams were also serpentine. The logo on the backside of the jeans was with the snake coiling in an S shape.

The design included knit torso with cloth jacket shoulders and jackets whose sleeves were slashed open like something from the Renaissance. The unlocking key of Stefano Pilati's latest enigmatic collection was the T-shirt he was wearing when he took his bow. Pilati introduced the collection with a short film made by director Samuel Benchetr it. Yves Saint Laurent jackets were cutaway, low in front, higher in back, which gave an illusion of urgency, like the models were leaning forward. Over all, it was a fun and colourful voyage to menswear fashion at the Paris do.

About the Author

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Yacht Charter in Northern Crete

Crete was home to one of world's most important civilisations, the Minoans who ruled the eastern Mediterranean from 2800 - 1150 BC. The art that has survived shows a refined and peace loving culture. There is a good collection in the Museum at Iraklion. Through commerce, shipping and trade with other peoples, the Egyptians, Phoenicians and Syrians they built a powerful civilisation. The Achaians and the Dorians followed. The Romans occupied Crete 69 - 330 AD making Gortyn their major town. Crete fell into the Arabic hands in 824 and was not liberated until 961). Then in 1204, the island passed to the Venetians. They fortified the island with several new castles and broke the ground for new cities of Hania and Rethimno. Inside the walls the cities developed with narrow alleys and houses, interspersed with decorative churches, fountains, piazzas and palaces the remains of which can still be seen today. In 1645 the Turks set foot on the island for the first time and in 1669 the whole of Crete fell to them. Not until 1913 was the island reunited with the rest of Greece.

In the summer the prevailing wind is the infamous Meltemi from the NW - WNW. July and August sees the winds at their strongest, force 5 - 6 on the northern coast but more often a more gentle force 3 - 4. The spring and autumn sees winds form the south, force 2 - 4. The southern coast is notorious for strong squalls the blow down from the mountains. There is little in the way of warning and they can be violent close inshore. It gets very hot on the island during the summer months with the average daily temperature reaching 35 deg C in July and August and temperatures as high as 40 deg C are not uncommon.

Kissamoss lies in the NW corner of Crete. Yachts can berth alongside or anchor of in the harbour. There is good shelter from the W and NW but it is open to the E and SE. In a strong northerly getting away can be difficult, as the yacht will have to beat for 14 miles to escape the bay. Water is available and the re is a taverna close by. The nearest provisions are at Kastelli, which is a one mile bus journey away.

Khania is to the E. Entrance can be difficult in a strong northerly as the sea heaps up around the entrance. The marina is in the E basin. You will be directed to a berth where a laid mooring awaits. There is good shelter in all but northerly gales. There is water and electricity on the pontoons. A mini tanker can deliver fuel. All provisions can be obtained and there are good tavernas in the town. This Venetian city was for centuries the capital of Crete and much of the charming architecture remains.

Soudhas is further to the E. It is the Greek navy's southern base and yachts have been refused entry at times. If allowed in go bow or stern to on the S quay. Shelter is extremely good. There is water on the ferry mole and fuel can be delivered. All provisions can be obtained and there is a good choice of tavernas. The military presence tends to put a bit of a dampener on things and this is not a must visit.

Yioryiopolis is a small harbour at the mouth of the river Almiros. Go alongside the quay or anchor in the bay to the north. There is good shelter except with winds from the N - NE. There is water in the village and most provisions can be obtained and there are several tavernas. The village is both attractive the locals are friendly making a visit well worthwhile.

Rethimon is an old Venetian harbour. Go alongside inside the N jetty or bow or stern to the E jetty. There is good shelter even from the Meltemi tucked under the E jetty. There is water on the quay and fuel can be delivered. All provisions can be obtained and there are some good tavernas including several fish restaurants in the Venetian harbour. This should be one of the highlights of the charter. The Venetian harbour and town are attractive and the buildings with wooden balconies are a reminder of Turkish occupation.

Iraklion is the capital of Crete. Proceed to the Venetian harbour at the W end of the main harbour. Go bow or stern to at the "marina" in the S or on the N quay. There is water on the quay and fuel can be delivered. There is excellent shopping and fresh fish is sold in the harbour. There are good tavernas many of which serve fresh fish. Try those around the market in town. The city itself has little to recommend it but visits to Knossus, an archaeological site, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the tourists. And the museum containing a collection from the Minoan times is worthwhile.

Khersonisos is a small harbour. Go bow to the mole or anchor off. Care is needed because depths vary throughout the harbour and the holding is poor on sand and rock. There is good shelter from the N as the harbour is open only to the SE. Water, fuel and provisions can all be found in the town. The town is a modern tourist development, full of bad architecture and obnoxious holidaymakers.

Spinalonga Lagoon is situated in the N of the larger bay Kolpos Merembellou. Yachts can anchor anywhere in the lagoon. Most provisions can be obtained at Elounda. Take a look at Nisis Spinalongas. The setting for the Venetian fort and deserted settlement are most attractive.

Further to the south is Ay Nikolaos. There is a marina on the S side of the headland. Yachts should bow or stern to where directed and use a laid mooring. There is water and electric on the pontoons. Fuel can be delivered to the yacht. There are numerous tavernas and most provisions can be obtained. This fishing village is now a large tourist development although the marina is sited some way from the noisy area.

Pahia Ammos is situated at the S end of Kolpos Merembellou. There are depths of up to 3m at the extremity of the mole. The harbour is exposed to the Meltemi. Limited provisions can be obtained in the village and there are several tavernas

Further W lies Sitia. Go bow or stern to the inner N mole. The bottom is sand and weed with some rocks. There is good shelter from the Meltemi. There are both fuel and water in the harbour. All provisions can be obtained in the town and there are several good fish restaurants. The inner harbour with its tree lined esplanade is pleasant and watching dusk fall over the harbour while tucking in to a nice sea bass is the perfect end to a day's charter.

Ak Sidhero is the NE tip of Crete and to the S there are several anchorages in small inlets. There are no facilities but the scenery is imposing with a desolate feel.

Crete's cuisine is similar to that found throughout the Aegean. Fish plays a large part in the form of tuna, swordfish, sea bass, urchins, octopus, squid and cuttlefish. You will find beef, pork, lamb and goat. A rabbit stew is a speciality. As is cheese pie and fried cheese (staka). For those with a sweet tooth try yogurt and honey tarts (kaltzounia). Cretan wine is fairly good.

About the Author

Ken Jones runs a Sailing Site.
More information about Yacht Charter can be found here
Find other Marine Services in Greece here.

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